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Fourth of July Cooking with Deb Perelman

Updated: Thursday, 02 Jul 2009, 8:58 PM EDT
Published : Tuesday, 30 Jun 2009, 10:04 PM EDT

Deb Perelman, founder of the smittenkitchen.com blog and a contributor to goodbite.com , was in the Good Day Café with some easy and affordable dishes everyone is going to love for the 4th of July.

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DEB PERELMAN'S NOT YOUR MAMA'S COLE SLAW
Adapted from Ina Garten

Updated forewarning: This makes quite a bit of slaw, even when you use the tiniest of cabbage heads. It also makes way more dressing than I at least personally would ever put on my slaw. However, the dressing keeps for at least a month (longer, even, but I hate to admit how long we've kept it in use) and makes an excellent dip for vegetables. The shredded cabbage mix keeps as well-sans parsley, which has a shorter lifespan-probably for close to a week pre-dressing. That said, don't be afraid to scale the recipe back if you're only feeding a few.

1/2 small head green cabbage
1/2 small head red cabbage
4 large carrots, scrubbed or peeled
2 cups (16 ounces) good mayonnaise
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon celery salt
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

Cut the cabbages in half and then in quarters and cut out the cores. Set up the food processor* with the slicing blade (according to manufacturers instructions) and place the pieces of cabbage, one at a time, lying horizontally in the feed tube. (If they don't fit, cut them to fit lying down.) Place the feed tube pusher on top and turn on the processor. Don't push on the feed tube pusher or the slices will turn out too thick! Continue with the remaining red and green cabbage quarters. Transfer into a large bowl, discarding any very large pieces. Before you pour the dressing on the salad, save a handful of the grated vegetables to decorate for serving.

ROSEANNE CASH'S POTATO SALAD
Adapted from Bon Appetit, June 2004

Makes 8 servings.

3 pounds medium red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed
8 dill pickle spears or a handful of cornichon, coarsely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 celery stalks, chopped (about 1 cup)
1 small red onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled, chopped
2/3 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
Salt and pepper to taste

Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain; cool. Cut potatoes into chunks pieces and transfer to large bowl. Stir in pickles, celery, onion, eggs, mayonnaise, mustard vinegar and dill. Season potato salad to taste with salt and pepper.

Do ahead: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.

Change the slicing blade for the large shredding blade and cut the carrots so they also lie down in the feed tube. Since the carrots are hard, replace the feed tube pusher and press firmly with the food processor on. Transfer to bowl with the cabbages.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, both mustards, vinegar, celery salt, kosher salt, and pepper. Pour enough mayonnaise dressing over the grated vegetables and toss to moisten well. Add parsley and toss together. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours to allow the flavors to meld. Serve cold or at room temperature.

* Though I try not to wax too poetic about kitchen appliances and gadgets, as not everyone has the same registry loot as we've been lucky enough to amass, and also, I mean, mixing and chopping things by hand was good enough for our grandmothers, right? Still, this is one of those recipes that if you have a food processor, more importantly one with a slicing and grating blade, it will cut your prep time by 75 percent. If you have one, use it; you'll thank me.

CHOPPED VEGETABLE SALAD WITH WATERMELON AND FETA

I'm so in love with the new Bon Appetit, I am forgiving the fact that they used the cringe-worthy word veggies in their initial title.

Makes 4 servings

1 pound Campari or plum tomatoes, diced, drained
1 1/2 cups diced seeded watermelon
1 large green bell pepper, seeded, cut into 1/3-inch cubes
1/2 large English hothouse cucumber, seeded, cut into 1/3-inch cubes
1/2 cup very thinly sliced radishes
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
10 ounces feta cheese, broken into small cubes (about 2 1/2 cups),
2 divided green onions, chopped, divided
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh mint leaves, divided
1/2 cup plain Greek-style yogurt
1 teaspoon dried oregano

Toss first 5 ingredients and 2 tablespoons oil in large bowl. Add half each of cheese, green onions, and mint. Mix remaining cheese, green onions, mint, and oil in processor; add yogurt and oregano. Process just to blend (do not over-mix or dressing will get thin). Season dressing with salt and pepper; mix into salad.

GREEN BEAN AND CHERRY TOMATO SALAD
Adapted from Chez Panisse Vegetables

This does make a bit of dressing-more than we usually use on a salad-so only use the amount you

feel comfortable. We ended up piling this on top of torn Bibb lettuce leaves, and it couldn't have been more delicious. And quick.

Serves 6

1 pound green beans
1 pound cherry tomatoes (Sweet 100, Sungold or Green Grape are what Waters recommends)
1 large shallot
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Optional: basil or other herb

Top and tail the beans, and parboil them in salted water until tender (I find four minutes to be just right for green beans, especially when they will continue cooking for a minute on the towel). Drain and immediately spread them out to cool. (The beans retain more flavor if you avoid shocking them in cold water.) Stem the cherry tomatoes and cut them in half. These steps can be done in advance.

For the vinaigrette, peel and dice the shallot fine and put it in a bowl with the vinegar and salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil. Taste and adjust the balance with more vinegar, oil, or slat, as needed. Toss the cherry tomatoes in with the vinaigrette; this can sit for a while. Do not add the green beans (I decided at the last minute to halve them) until just before serving or they will discolor from the acid in the vinaigrette. For variety, the salad can be garnished with basil or some other fresh herb such as parsley, chervil or hyssop.

Note: You can very this salad by adding cooked fresh shell beans to the mixture of green beans and cherry tomatoes. We sometimes make a more complicated, composed salad, adding boiled lobster. A concentrated reduction is made from the lobster shells, aromatic vegetables and white wine, then whisked into a Champagne vinaigrette to dress the beans, lobster, and tomatoes.

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